Northern Peru: Lost Civilizations and the Amazon

You’ll be greeted at Jorge Chávez International Airport and walked to the Wyndham Grand Costa del Sol Lima Airport, an upscale airport accommodation with high-tech rooms, a heated swimming pool, and multiple dining options, where you can decompress before your journey north the next day.

A short flight north brings you to the city of Trujillo and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Chan Chan. Once the largest adobe city in the Americas, the late capital of the Chimú civilization once housed as many as 50,000 people. Explore its palaces, ceremonial plazas, and intricately carved reliefs, all evidence of the Chimú’s urban planning acumen.You’ll have lunch in the beach town of Huanchaco, said to be the birthplace of ceviche, before continuing to the El Brujo Archaeological Complex, one of the most significant settlements of the Moche civilization. Consisting of three principal temples, it’s where the 2006 discovery of the mummified Señora de Cao transformed theories about gender roles in pre-Columbian cultures. In the textile conservation lab of the on-site museum, archaeologists will explain the cultural significance of ancient pieces and the techniques they use to preserve them. Afterward, you’ll drive to Chiclayo and check into Casa Andina Select Chiclayo, a short distance from the city’s lively Plaza de Armas.

Visit the Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, which contains the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, a Moche ruler buried with 451 objects made of gold, silver, copper, and turquoise. The Royal Tomb of Sipan is one of the most important archaeological discoveries in the Americas.After a local lunch, you’ll head to Huaca Rajada—the tomb’s original excavation site—accompanied by Ignacio Alva, the son of the archaeologist who led the discovery in 1987, who will tell you more about the burial practices and social structure of the Moche elite.

Leave the coast for the serenity of the cloud forest via a private charter flight to Chachapoyas. This inland town was the beating heart of the Chachapoya people, often referred to as the Warriors of the Clouds, who flourished between 800 and 1470 CE before falling to the Inca Empire.Afterward, you’ll head to the community of the Huancas, where a local women’s cooperative will demonstrate the craft behind the region’s traditional pottery. Enjoy an organic garden-to-table lunch at Gocta Natura Reserve, your hotel for the night. Set amid the cloud forest, this B Corp–certified ecolodge champions environmental stewardship and empowerment of local women.

In the town of Lámud, explore the Quiocta Caverns––a vast subterranean gallery full of stalactites, stalagmites, and cave paintings depicting ancient rituals. In Cruzpata, a short, scenic hike leads to the Karajía Sarcophagi––eight Chachapoyan mummies known as the Ancient Wise Men, perched dramatically on a high cliff face.As dusk approaches, glimpse flashes of iridescent hummingbirds having a last drink before dark at Gocta Natura Reserve before settling in for your own supper, an Andean-inspired culinary journey showcasing sustainable local produce. While you eat, Peter Lerche, one of the world’s foremost experts on Chachapoya civilization, will share insights from three decades in the field.

Outside the picturesque town of Leymebamba, the renowned archaeologist and bioanthropologist Dr. Sonia Guillén will introduce you to the mummies of Laguna de los Cóndores. The more than 200 specimens at the community-run Leymebamba Museum provide insights into Chachapoya burial rituals, health, and social structure. You will also be able to see examples of the Incas’ quipus, or “talking knots,” record-keeping devices used throughout the empire. You’ll have lunch at the ecolodge Kentitambo, whose name translates as “hummingbird” from the Quechua language; the structure is designed to attract and support the tiny creatures. It is home to as many as 17 species, including the endangered spatuletail and the sparkling violetear. Kentitambo is also built to encourage the regeneration of the cloud forest, which you’ll experience at Kuélap, a legendary citadel perched 3,000 meters above sea level. Sometimes referred to as the Machu Picchu of the North, the vast stone fortress, which has roughly 400 circular stone structures and paths that wind between walls as tall as 20 meters, was built around 6 CE.

Fly to Lima for a quick return to modernity, spending the night at Belle Époque boutique Hotel B in the neighborhood of Barranco. In the evening, head to Sastería Martinez in Miraflores, a clandestine spot that makes bespoke suits by day and tailor-made cocktails by night. The bartenders will teach you their tricks of the trade, serving gourmet tapas alongside signature drinks.

Begin your morning with a spirit-lifting performance by Afro Peruvian musician Javier Lazo, who will combine music and storytelling at Lima’s Andrés del Castillo Mineral Museum. Lunch will be at Isolina, which has a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Walk it off with a stroll through Barranco, led by photographer Christian Declerc, who will share his own Lima secrets. Finish the tour with a private visit to the Casa Liébana Collection, a showcase for contemporary Peruvian arts and traditional crafts; then make a quick stop at family-run institution Taberna Juanito to try the famous butifarra (smoked pork sandwich) and jamón del país. But save space for dinner at Shizen, one of the city’s best Nikkei restaurants, where world-class chefs prepare Peruvian ingredients (huacatay, sea urchin, leche de tigre) using Japanese techniques.

Take a short flight to Iquitos before traveling deep to Nauta, a remote village on the banks of the Marañón River, where you’ll meet your river guide. Embark on the brand-new boutique riverboat Pure Amazon, an A&K Sanctuary. Kick off the trip in the Explorer’s Lounge with a briefing on the next day’s activities, followed by a dinner featuring innovative Amazonian cuisine.

Rise at dawn for a bird-watching adventure. Your skiff will traverse Nauta Caño, a creek known for its dense vegetation and mirrorlike black water, which offers endless opportunities for wildlife spotting. In the early morning, you might spot black-collared hawks, flamboyant tanagers, and oropendolas.After a breakfast aboard Pure Amazon, another skiff will take you along the Yanayacu Pucate, one of the tributaries in Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Scan the canopy for troops of squirrel monkeys, then try fishing for (and releasing) piranhas. After lunch and a break from the heat, explore the quiet stream of Yanayaquillo, where the overhanging trees are full of wildlife. Paddle out in a kayak or stay in the skiff as dark falls and your guide points out the glowing eyes of caimans and other nocturnal creatures.

Today you might spot a pink dolphin, an endemic species found only in South America. Perhaps you’ll go fishing for voracious red-bellied piranha from a skiff. Learn more about local life by setting off early to Nueva Arica, a riverside village, and spend the morning learning how residents adapt to the seasons. Swim or kayak in the calm waters before setting out on a guided walk to the Samiria River (known as the Jungle Mirror because of its still waters), keeping an eye out for sloths and monkeys on your way. Return to Pure Amazon for your nightly debrief and discuss your wildlife sightings over a farewell dinner.

After disembarking in Nauta, visit Formabiap, an educational initiative committed to protecting the customs, traditions, knowledge, and language of different ethnic groups throughout the Peruvian Amazon. After a musical welcome, meet some of the young people who are studying to become teachers and honing their skills in Spanish as well as their local language. Later, participate in a spiritual cleansing session with an elder and listen to a presentation on the use of medicinal plants. Continue to the airport in Iquitos for your flight back to Lima, where you’ll connect with your international flight.